З Epiphone Casino Used Guitar
Used Epiphone Casino guitars offer classic tone and vintage style at an accessible price. Known for their lightweight build and distinctive sound, these guitars are popular among rock and pop musicians. Check condition, finish, and hardware when buying secondhand to ensure quality and playability.

Used Epiphone Casino Guitar in Great Condition for Serious Players

I found it at a pawn shop in Detroit. No paperwork. No warranty. Just a case with a dented corner and a neck that feels like it’s been played through a thousand covers. (I checked the serial–1973. Close enough.)

It’s got a 24.75″ scale, maple neck, rosewood fretboard. The pickups? P-90s. Not humbuckers. Not noiseless. Real P-90s–cranked at 10, they scream like a pissed-off cat in a tin can. (I’ve played a dozen of these. This one’s the only one that doesn’t buzz when I play low E.)

RTP? Not applicable. But the tone is clean. No dead spots. The bridge pickup cuts through a mix like a scalpel. I ran it through a 50-watt amp with a touch of overdrive. No EQ needed. Just plug in and go.

Volatility? High. The tremolo system is stiff–like it’s been frozen in time. But that’s part of the character. I’d call it “controlled chaos.”

Dead spins? Zero. I’ve played 47 hours straight. No dropouts. No microphonic feedback. Not even a squeak from the tuning pegs. (The nut was slightly worn–fixed it with a bit of graphite. Took 90 seconds.)

Max Win? Not a slot. But the sustain on a clean chord? 12 seconds. I timed it. That’s not a typo.

If you’re looking for something that doesn’t need a tech to fix it every other week, this is it. Not “great for beginners.” Not “perfect for pros.” Just a working piece of gear that sounds like it’s been through something. And that’s the point.

Price: $145. No haggling. No “limited-time offer.” Just a real thing. Not a dream.

How to Spot a Well-Maintained Epiphone Casino from 1961–1969 on a Budget

Check the neck joint first. If it’s loose, walk away. I’ve seen three ’65s with that crack between the neck and body–felt like playing a broken toy. The truss rod should move smoothly. If it’s stiff or clicks like a broken lock, the wood’s been stressed. (I once bought one that needed a full neck reset. Cost me more than the guitar was worth.)

Look at the finish. Gloss on these from that era? Rare. Most have a satin or semi-gloss that’s worn thin near the neck heel. That’s normal. But if it’s chipped in big chunks or the wood looks sanded down to bare grain? That’s a sign of a bad refinish. Original finish? It’ll have tiny dings, not big gouges. Real wear, not fake.

Strings should sit flat on the bridge. If the saddle’s warped or the screws are stripped, the intonation’s shot. I tested one with a 3mm sharpness at the 12th fret. That’s not a vintage quirk–it’s a fixable flaw. The tuning machines? Check the gear teeth. If they’re chewed or the shaft wobbles, you’re paying for a repair job.

Bridge screws? They should be flush. If they’re loose or missing, someone’s been fiddling. I once found one with a washer glued in. (No. Just no.) The pickguard? Original black plastic, not the cheap white knockoff from 1980s China. And the pickup covers–silver, not chrome. Chrome shows up later.

Don’t trust the case. Trust the hands.

Hold it. Feel the weight. If it’s lighter than a toaster, it’s been stripped. The original mahogany body? Solid. Not hollowed out. If it feels like a hollow shell, it’s been reworked. I once found a ’63 with a routed-out back for a pickup. (They did that in ’67, but not before.)

Open the control cavity. The wiring should be original–black enamel wire, not modern tinned. If it’s all shiny and clean, it’s been touched. I’ve seen three with new pots that didn’t match the original value. (One was a 10k, not the original 250k. That changes the tone like hell.)

Play it. No dead strings. No buzzing. No weird feedback when you hit the high E. If the pickups hum when you move your hand near the neck? That’s a ground issue. Not a dealbreaker, but it’s a cost. And the volume taper? It should roll off smoothly. If it jumps or cuts out, the pot’s shot.

Step-by-Step Setup: Adjusting the Bridge and Neck for Optimal Playability

Start with the bridge height–set it so the strings sit 3/32″ at the 12th fret, measured from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. No more, no less. I’ve seen players leave it too high and end up with a neck that feels like a steel beam. Not fun.

Use a 1/16″ hex key to loosen the saddle screws. Don’t overdo it–just enough to adjust. Raise or lower each saddle until the intonation is spot-on. Play the 12th fret harmonic and compare it to the fretted note. If they don’t match, tweak the saddle. Repeat for every string. It’s tedious. I know. But skipping this? That’s how you get dead tuning during a solo.

Now check the neck relief. Press the low E string down at the first and last frets. Look at the gap between the string and the 7th fret. It should be about the thickness of a business card. Too much space? Tighten the truss rod clockwise–quarter turns only. Too little? Back it off. Do this slowly. One full turn can throw the whole neck out.

After adjusting, re-tune and re-check. I’ve had it go sideways after one tweak. Happens. Don’t rush. Let it settle for 10 minutes. Then play. If the action feels stiff or the strings buzz, go back. No shortcuts. This isn’t a 5-minute fix–it’s about getting it right so you can actually play without thinking about the damn setup.

Pro tip: Always check the nut slots. If the string binds, the tuning won’t hold. File them just enough to let the string slide freely. Too much? You’ll get a high fret buzz. Just enough? That’s the sweet spot.

Proven Wiring Modifications to Enhance Tone Without Breaking the Bank

I swapped the output jack to a shielded 1/4″ mono with a soldered ground wire. No more hum when I crank the amp. (I’ve seen cheaper mods fail, but this one’s bulletproof.)

Replaced the old 500k pot with a CTS 500k audio taper. The tone stack now rolls off cleanly–no shrill highs, no muddy lows. I can dial in that classic midrange punch without losing clarity.

Added a 0.022µF capacitor across the tone pot. Not the standard 0.047. This keeps the mids from getting too thin when you roll the tone down. Works perfectly with single-coil brightness.

Used a 100k resistor Gomblingobonus.Com in series with the bridge pickup’s hot lead. Reduces noise from ground loops. I run this through a 50-watt tube amp–no more 60-cycle whine.

Grounded the pickup covers to the volume pot’s sleeve. Simple. But when you’re running a hot signal, that little tweak kills the buzz. (I tested it with a 300-watt head. Still clean.)

Switched to a 1/4″ jack with a locking nut. No more loose connections when you’re slamming into a power chord. (I’ve had pickups go dead mid-song–this stops that.)

Used tinned copper braid for grounding. Not the cheap foil stuff. It holds up under constant vibration. I’ve played 12 shows in a row–no signal drop.

Real Talk: These Mods Won’t Fix a Crappy Pickup

If the coils are shot, no wiring trick fixes that. But if the wiring’s original, these changes give you 80% of the vintage tone for under $15 in parts. I did this on a 1978 model. It sounds like it cost twice as much.

Questions and Answers:

Is this used Epiphone Casino guitar in good playing condition?

The guitar shows typical signs of use, such as minor wear on the frets, light scratches on the finish, and some small dings on the body. The neck is straight, and the action is comfortable for playing—no buzzing or fretting out. The original pickups are functional, and the tuning machines hold tune well. The electronics work as expected, with no crackling or signal loss. Overall, it’s a solid instrument that plays well and sounds authentic to the classic Casino tone.

What kind of sound does this Epiphone Casino produce?

The guitar delivers a bright, articulate tone with a clear midrange and crisp highs, typical of the P-90 pickups. It has a punchy character that works well for rock, blues, and jangle-pop styles. The sound is not overly dark or muddy, even when playing chords. The natural resonance of the solid mahogany body gives it a warm foundation, while the thin maple top adds clarity. It responds well to both clean and slightly overdriven tones.

Does the guitar come with a case or any accessories?

No case is included with this used Epiphone Casino. It comes with the guitar only. There are no extra strings, picks, or cables. Some players prefer to use a gig bag for protection, but this unit was sold without any additional items. If you’re planning to transport it regularly, you might want to consider purchasing a case separately.

How does the neck feel under the hand? Is it comfortable for long sessions?

The neck has a slim profile with a smooth finish, making it easy to navigate up and down the fretboard. The frets are worn but not excessively so—no sharp edges or uneven spots. The scale length is 24.75 inches, which is standard for this model. The action is set at a moderate height, allowing for clean playing without excessive finger pressure. It feels balanced and stable when playing, even during extended practice or performance.

Can this guitar be used for live performances or just practice?

Yes, this guitar is suitable for live use. It holds tuning well under stage conditions, and the P-90 pickups deliver a strong signal that cuts through a mix. The body is lightweight, which helps reduce fatigue during long sets. Many players have used the Casino model in live settings for decades, and this one performs similarly. It’s a reliable instrument that can handle regular stage use, especially in smaller venues or bands with a clean, dynamic sound.

Is the Epiphone Casino used guitar in good condition, and what should I check before buying it?

The condition of a used Epiphone Casino depends on how it has been stored and played. Look closely at the body for deep scratches, dents, or cracks, especially around the edges and near the strap buttons. Check the neck for warping or excessive wear on the frets—frets should be smooth and even, without grooves or sharp edges. The finish should be intact without major fading or chipping. Test the tuning stability by turning the tuning pegs and playing notes across the fretboard. Make sure the bridge and tailpiece are secure and the strings sit properly. If the guitar has a pickup selector switch, test all positions to ensure clean switching without crackling. Also, inspect the wiring and knobs for signs of damage or loose connections. If the seller provides clear photos and a detailed description, that’s a good sign. If possible, try the guitar in person or ask for a video demonstration of it playing. A well-maintained used Casino can be a reliable and affordable option, especially if it has been cared for properly.

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